Did i get ripped off?

So I just got the brake drums and brake shoes on my 1998 honda crv changed (in Montreal, Canada). It is a LX model 4wd. What I don't get is how come each brake drum costs $164.71. They changed both drums in the back so the total drum costs was 329.42, plus the costs of the brake shoes, labour, taxes and some other fancy stuff, bringing the total cost to 659.89 cdn. Yes, rear brakes only! Now, I don't know a whole lot about car parts and their costs - but that sounds like alot to me. So car connaisseurs - did I get ripped off (by Honda)?Did i get ripped off?Dealer prices are higher than those charged by independent shops. The Honda factory parts are more expensive than comparable aftermarket parts.



I can buy the brake drums (retail) for about $43 USD each from an aftermarket parts store. A shop would charge more, but the drums would be about $60 each.



You paid more because you took the car to the dealer.Did i get ripped off?Regardless of the model car a drum brake is a drum brake. They usually don't need changing unless you damaged them in some way. One way is to drive with worn out brake pads this would dig deep grooves into the otherwise smoother inner surface of the drum. If you damaged the drums to the point where they could not be repaired but had to be replaced you probably paid on average what that job is worth considering the cost of auto repairs. If they replaced good brake drums to hike the price then I would say you were ripped off. If your in doubt about the old drums ask them if they are still around, and look at them yourself the inside should be smooth.Did i get ripped off?Yes,you got ripped.Go to a local parts store and have them give you a printed price of the items.The shop will use the retail figure,not the parts store price to you,but these drums are around $50 at most.Then take it to a lawyer.Did i get ripped off?parts for Hondas are expensive. I'd say (without knowing the exchange rate) that $660-canadian is just about right but I don't know what %26quot;other fancy stuff%26quot; is. sometimes %26quot;fancy stuff%26quot; may be necessary for the repair.Did i get ripped off?Don't blame honda...dealerships aren't owned by corporate (usually). It's really you're fault for taking an old vehicle to the dealership to get work done. Any grease monkey can install brakes in just about any car. But yeah...you got hosed for a drum brake job.Did i get ripped off?Yes, you did. Here in the states you can buy the drums for $42.99 at autozone. and the shoes for $14.99, Even if you add in a couple hours labor at $75.00 per hour that ends up being less than three hundred dollarsDid i get ripped off?you should have shopped around for different quotes. The shop usually will add $$$ onto the parts even though they purchase at wholesale. Next time get several quotes. You could have probably saved $200 if you shopped around.Did i get ripped off?Never get your car worked on at a dealership unless it's still under warranty,it would cost 1/2 that at a repair shop.That is a LOT of $$$ for 2 brake drums.Did i get ripped off?isnt that like $4 us LOL just kidding...no it sounds like you got hosed.

Rear brakes on my Civic have a squeal noise now when i go to brake hard. How much will it cost to fix?

Does this sound like an issue of pads or could it more likely be the drums going bad? I just recently had just the front pads replaced and i dont have a lot of money to spend. I go to a regular mechanic who is good and trustworthy.



So how much labr time would it take if the drums do need to be changed? I know the front pads only took like 45 minutes for him to do. What should i expect the cost to be? Assuming i have him use the least expensive drums? THanksRear brakes on my Civic have a squeal noise now when i go to brake hard. How much will it cost to fix?Unfortunately, if you are getting a bad squeeking noise from the rear drums; they pads don't have wear indicators on them to let you know when they are going bad so there is a good chance you wore through them and it is the metal backing rubbing on the drums. You might get lucky and it is just dust or other problems like rusted/worn linkages. If you don't trust mechanics; go to a shop that can show you what it looks like when they remove the drum. You'll be able to tell and they'll point out the problem areas. Should be around $100 - $150 for parts and around $125 - $200 for labor.

Dumb question about DIY servicing?

OK, now i've been doing my own car maintenance for a few years now, thought I had the basics down pat. Difference is, coming up for the first major milestone (ignoring 5000 mile oil change due to %26quot;extreme%26quot; i.e. intra-urban conditions) since I treated %26quot;new%26quot; car (and myself) to a dealer service, i've discovered the service book lists a great number of things to look for compared to what i thought was the norm, and it's making my head swim trying to follow down all the columns for all the different models/engines at different mileages...

Roughly what would the experienced spanners out there reccomend I do for a 10000 mile self service? Past oil, filter, airbox, plugs/leads, battery/fluid levels checks, belts, making sure tyres/wheelnuts are OK %26amp; a decent scout around the less commonly seen bits of the body?



(esp. how exactly would you check the front disc/rear drum brakes, previously i've just waited til they squealed/juddered... oops :)



Cheers... you'll help keep a guy safe!

MPDumb question about DIY servicing?The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask!



You didn't mention what year/make your car is. A LOT has changed. Many cars are now built needing very little until mileage is rather high. At 10k miles, I doubt if you need anything but oil change, check air filter, tire pressure, rotate (of course).



Call or go by a dealership and let them highlight which maintenance schedule you should be following.



P.S. - ALWAYS log date/mileage and receipts for warranty purposes...just in case.Dumb question about DIY servicing?Well its an old one, itd be false economy for me to DIY it at 10k from new when most come with 3 yrs free service now. '98 Vauxhall Astra if you must know, coming up on 59k miles now. Already had to do head gasket at 35k... May ask again, with full details, ~June/61k (next checkup approx due then)

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Dumb question about DIY servicing?BTW I know the sched to follow from my logbook, %26amp; can do the big jobs laid out in workshop manual (oil change %26gt; piston rings). Was wondering what %26quot;soft%26quot; checks may be sensible (in general motoring terms), like if shocks need tapping with spanner to see what they sound like, tracking checks etc, lol

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Dumb question about DIY servicing?As for your brakes, you can pull the wheel off the front and check how much pad is left. There is a wear indicator on it that rubs the rotor and makes the squealing sound. if it is touching the rotor, then they need to be changed.Dumb question about DIY servicing?i own a repair shop,and the front brakes have little wear indicate-rs on them,you can look and see how far they are from the rotors,and on the back breaks look and do the same ,if there drum brakes,look and see how much wear is left on them,and as far as the other stuff,just check everything on it,check for loose bolts and grease hinges good ,clean the engine area real good ,just go over the whole thing,you can spend a whole day on it ,and still not get done with all of it,just take your time and look it over real good,im sure you,ll find things to do on it,,,good luck i hope this help,s.Dumb question about DIY servicing?Apart from the mechanical stuff, take a close look at areas that are vulnerable to rust like the underside of the fenders. Clean out the mud and see if there is any rust starting. If there is, remove as much as possible (sandblasting is about the most effective way, but phosphoric acid solutions like Naval Jelly and Ospho will work), then apply some magic rust-converting and protective stuff like POR-15.

How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?

There is usually a lip that you can use to pry off the dust cap when you go to change the rear brakes but there isn't one on the Focus. Is there a trick to it?How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?DO NOT attempt to remove the drum by hitting it with a hammer!!! It is not a %26quot;knock off%26quot; style like they are on most other vehicles. The drum on this particular car is one piece with the rear wheel bearing. The dust cap is NOT reusable once removed. You are correct in that there is no way to remove it, without damaging it. For this reason, those dust caps are readily available at any Ford dealer parts departments. On this particular car, there are TWO ways to remove the drum. One is to remove the dust cap you mentioned, and then the 30mm axle nut behind it. Or, you can remove the drum and spindle as an assembly by removing the four 13mm bolts on the BACK side of the backing plate. Doing it this way requires removing the ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped) either attached to the spindle with the connector disconnected just ahead of the rear wheel, or removing it from the spindle with the one 8mm bolt securing it, if it will come out easily. BTW what is the mileage on this car? It should not be needing brakes on the rear. Rear brake shoes on these particular cars usually have a long lifespan. If you do end up removing it by the first method, just remember that the 30mm axle nut has to be torqued to 174 ft.-lbs. upon reinstallation. Hope this helps.How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?You're Welcome.

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How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?try a big channel-lock pliers. grab it and wiggle it back and forth while pulling. you might have a couple marks on the cap when done, but it won't be dented and out of roundHow do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?No removal at all, when you take your tire off, you have to bang like hell to take off the drum. Thats all! Tire, then take off drum. Took me about a 1/2 hour to take one of my drums off my car, the other side just slid off.

How can I fix the brakes on my car.?

I cannot get the brakes to work on my daily driven car.



1988 Toyota Camry no abs rear drums



Symptom: brake pedal goes to the floor, no pressure in front left wheel and rear right wheel. This all happened after I REBUILT my 2 front calipers and tried to bleed the system.



- I changed the master cylinder (twice because the first I thought was a defective rebuild) I adjusted the push rod on the booster. I adjusted the brake pedal. Didn't work



FWD cars are split systems, front right wheel works with rear left wheel, front left wheel works with rear right wheel. diagonally.



- So, I changed my proportioning valve, and the little splitter block next to the master. didnt work



- Then I thought maybe the caliper rebuild kits were poor quality so I bought 2 new calipers. didn't work



- I replaced a wheel cylinder I found had a seized piston. didn't work



I've tried bleeding the car starting with the furthest wheel from the master to the closest, I tried cross bleeding it (because its a split system). I've put almost 2 liters of brake fluid through the system in attempts to get it to work. Ive tried just about everything...nothing works



Whats the next step, what am I missing.



Garage is not an option I've changed every piece that could have been faulty.



thank youHow can I fix the brakes on my car.?Are you getting a good brake effort from OSF and NSR brakes? Have you visually checked / watched the fluid come out from both outlets on the master cylinder? Definatly sounds like a master cylinder problem to me.



Does fluid squirt nicely out of the nipples on the brakes that are not working or are you getting very little fluid through?How can I fix the brakes on my car.?I assume that after you reattached all the brake components and bled the brakes that you pumped the brake pedal until the pedal became hard?



This needs to be done to take up the slack between brake pads/shoes and discs/drums and between the pistons/calipers and the brake pads.How can I fix the brakes on my car.?Did you check the brake lines?How can I fix the brakes on my car.?a way to check this out is to make sure all llines are closed, next have someone inside the car to do the pedal pushing. first is open the line at the master by unscrewing the threaded nut, with the line open have the person inside push down and hold the brake pedal till you can close the line, after closing the line then the pedal can be released.

repeat this about 8 to 10 times, by the end you should have fluid coming out of the line at the master. do this to both lines.



You are not pumping at any time

pumping will just agitate the air in the system.



If by the 10th time you are not getting a solid stream of fluid from the master cylinder line then there is a problem with the master.



Next move down the line to the block and repeat the same steps,

see if you can get fluid out of the other side of the block if you do then repeat this step to each of the wheels.



After you get solid fluid to each of the wheel then and only then can you proceed to perform the pumping type of bleeding.



any other questions please email me

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SEAT Ibiza back brakes?

Can anyone direct me to a web page that will give me a step by step on how to change the rear brake shoes on a Mk 3 Ibiza.

Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.

Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?Rear Drum Brakes:

Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2# or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything

1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?

i have a 1972 chevy truck k20. with power disc/drum brakes. disc front drum back. someone cut my rear brake lines and put water in my brake resevoir. now theres air in all my lines and stuff. how can i get all the air out. i plugged the back brake line and am now bleeding them from the rear. is there any possibilty to getting all the air out or what. how can i go about doing this the best way. and also is it true what i hear about a sbc engine needing backpressure. then how can hot rods and or rat rods run straight headers. is there anything i can do to my carburetor to gain more hp when i run straight header. like change the jetting or something. please all your information is greatly appreciated and needed. engine is a 02 chevy crate engine with a cam and edelbrock 650 cfm carb and edelbrock performer intake manifold. hei ignition by ac delco. and champion spark plugs. and serpentine belt kit. 4 core radiator. o and the truck has no fan and runs 160 degrees all the time.1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?I hate to say this but you should have it towed somewhere with a pressure bleeder. I say this for 2 reasons. Reason 1 these are your brakes were talking about its the only way to stop your truck so I believe that since you have never done it before you should have a professional do it. And reason 2 every good tech knows that brake fluid absorbs water so if someone put it in your brake system then that's why you should get it pressure bled so they can flush out all the water. Make sure you tell them that there is water in the system and that it needs flushed extra good. This may not be what you wanna hear but its a professionals opinion.